Woodworking Rabbet tips and information for you.
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Tools for Woodwork
The process of building products using wood as the primary material is called wood-working. This may also include the process of carving something from wood.
Wood was one of the first materials to be used by our ancestors. Along with mud, stone and parts from animals, wood were turned into tools. As civilizations develop, so did their tools. This is proportional to the degree of skills involved by the people of the civilization.
Wooden tools created by our primitive ancestors were located in Lehringen. Some spears were found in Germany. Wooden weapons for hunting and flint tools for carving show that primitive people were already knowledgeable on how to create materials that would help them obtain their needs.
There are two ancient civilizations that are often mentioned when woodworking is the subject matter. These are the Egyptians and the Chinese. This is because woodworking has been shown in their ancient sketches and drawings.
Also, a vast amount of Egyptian furniture like chairs, tables, beds, stools and chests have been encased in tombs. Preservation of such materials shows that the ancient Egyptian people were inclined to use wood. Coffins that were located in the tomb were also out of wood.
Egyptians used metal for their woodwork. Copper and bronze were the main tools for woodworking. These were turned into adzes, pull saws, axes, chisels and bow drills.
Ancient Egyptians were the first civilization to do veneering. They were also the first to use varnish, therefore resulting to what is now termed as “finishes.” They used native acacias and the wood from the sycamore and tamarisk trees.
As for the Chinese, wood working was said to have started when Lu Ban and his wife Lady Yun brought plane and chalkline to China. This was during the Spring and Autumn period. From them on, Lu Ban’s teachings were said to have been recoreded in the book “Lu Band Jing” or “Manuscript of Lu Ban.”
This was written 1500 years after he died. The book is complete with elaborate descriptions of the necessary dimensions in building different kinds of furniture like tables, altars and flower pots.
In the modern times, these are the tools a woodworker must possess:
* Measuring and Marking tools _ protractor, tape measures, rules – scratch awls, marking knives, marking gauges – plane gauges in order to figure out how flat the surface it – hygrometers in order to figure out how much water the wood has – levels – winding sticks – combination squares, try squares, straightedges
* Cutting tools – hands saws like the rip saw, cross cut saw, keyhole saw, bow saw, coping saw, tenon saw, gent’s saw and dowtail saw – power saws like the chainsaw, radial arm saw, miter saw, band saw, scroll saw, hole saw, table saw and circular saw.
* Shaping tools – hand planes like the smoothing plane, shoulder plane, spear plane, rabbet plane, scrub plane, block plane and jointer plane. – jointer and thickness planer – router – rotary tools – gouge and chisel – drill press and chisel mortiser – knifer – rasp – lathe – other hand shaping tools like the adze, axe, froe, drawknife and spokeshave
* Assembly tools – screwdriver – mallet and hammer – hand or power drills – clamps like the F-clamp, G-clamp, C-clamp, miter clamp, bar clamp, band clamp and sash clamp
* Finishing tools – sandpaper that can be used alone. It can be used with power sanders like belt sander, palm sander, orbit sander, disc sander or sanding blocks – steel wool or bronze wool for polishing and applying stain – file – scraper – spray guns used to apply lacquer – brushes for applying varnish
* Accessory tools and furniture – workbench or the bench or table where one sits or stands. This is where the woodworking process takes place Kinds of workbench 1. dog hole or a round or square hole that allows clamping and holding devices to be attached 2. bench dog or a peg that is inserted into a dog hole that lets in the clamp pressure 3. hold fast or the rod that is bent when put into the dog hole. It is used to put boards into position 4. vise or a clamping apparatus that holds wood in various positions during woodworking 5. bench hook that is laid against the wood that can be pushed during woodworking. – Sawhorse is the four legged stand that often comes in pairs. It supports long boards, sheets and panels.
For Your Success, Rafeek Nassief www.moneybattery.com/woodworking/html
About the Author:
Founder of www.Moneybattery.com, through which, millions of internet marketing researchers are getting information about affiliate programing, SEO, home business, Commission Junktion, web hosting, blogging to make money, etc …
Article Source: ArticlesBase.com – The Basic Tools for Woodworking!
Want to know how to use a Router Table? Here are tips to get the most from your router table.
You do not need a miter channel. Typically, you slide your work along the fence. If using a miter channel, then the fence must be square to the miter channel. Why go to that trouble?
You can create a jig to glide along the Fence. This automatically aligns the wood to get a square cut. You can make adjustment in profile and depth of cut. A Router Lift makes this easy.
A quality Router Table fence eases dust collection. Use your Router Table and Fence for simplicity and ease!
You should never put your work between the fence and the router bit. That is just asking for trouble.
Typically, you slide the wood from right to left (when looking at the fence from the front). That is an anti-climb cut. You make nearly all cuts this way.
If very careful, you can go a short distance in the opposite direction. But you must hold on tight to avoid kickback and/or injury. This climb cut gives cleaner edges, but you should only attempt it after a lot of experience.
Only do less than 15% of your work this way. You should only use shallow or light cuts. Do NOT take big cuts. Only do it when you hands are protected and away from the router bit.
How to use a Router Table to center edge-to-edge joints:
Have you ever wondered how to center edge-to-edge joints? You use this technique for making solid tabletops, wide panels, or even make edging to go around your router table top.
Let’s use an actual example of oak edging on a MDF Router Table Top. The top is 1 1/8″ thick. The oak edging is 1 1/8″ thick.
How do we ensure a centered edge?
- Decide on the tongue dimension. You have a 1/4″ slot cutter. You want the tongue thickness less than two times the cut. Therefore, the tongue thickness is slightly less than 1/2″. We use a 1/4″ depth of cut for this example.
- We want a tongue that is less than 1/2″ in thickness. Therefore, we know that the rabbet on the Table Top is slightly more than 5/16″ on both sides of a 1 1/8″ thick piece.
- Rabbet the top with a rabbet bit with a bearing to produce a 1/4″ rabbet. You don’t want to take a lot during your first pass. Therefore, the depth of cut is set for 1/8″ for your first pass.
- Set the fence so it is even with the bearing of the rabbet bit.
- Cut both top and bottom of the top. Take your time and go all the way around. Make sure the workpiece is flat on the Router Table Top. Or use the router on top of the workpiece.
- Measure the thickness of the tongue. If it is larger than 1/2″, then adjust the depth of cut. A router lift makes this easy.
Note: you rout both sides; therefore use one-half the
adjustment for each side. - Make your adjustment, rout the top and bottom again. The tongue’s thickness is now slightly less
than 1/2″. - Replace your rabbeting bit with your 1/4″ slot cutter.
I always disconnect the power source to the router before changing bits! - Sit the rabbeted piece on the router tabletop near the slot cutter. Raise the Router so the bottom of the slot cutter aligns with the bottom of the tongue. You may need support if the workpiece is large.
- Set the depth of cut for the slot to around 3/16″ initially. Now slot your Oak edging. Turn it over and slot again. Test the slot on the tongue. Is it too tight? If so, remember that you make two passes with the slotter. Only lower your slot bit by 1/2 of the dimension needed. By the way, the Porter Cable 7518 Router makes this a snap.
- Since the slot cut is 1/4″, the second pass is not using the entire cutter. You get an exactly center slot that fits on the tongue.
- Once the slot (groove) fits on the tongue, you are ready to set your final depth of the groove. The final depth of cut is slightly more than 1/4″ to allow for glue.
- Set your fence for this final depth. Remember – make two passes with the slotter. This gives you an exact fit.
You can use this method for any edge-to-edge joinery, such as tabletops, panels, large drawer fronts, and any time you want to join two-pieces. You get perfect alignment and a rock-solid joint.
If you want to see how this looks after glue-up, please visit Router Table Top
To make your own router lift, visit an easy to make Router Lift
For more information on Using Your Router Table, including pictures and tips, please visit How to Use a Router Table
Jim is a woodworker with over 36 years of experience. He helps many woodworkers increase their skills with techniques, tips, plans, and jigs. Helping woodworkers is Jim’s expertise.
Cutting a stem rabbet
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