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Using Assembly Fittings and Hinges

Now that your workshop shed is up and running and you are moving along in those first few projects you realize there is going to be some fittings and hinges needed. These fittings and hinges will provide rigid joints and easily opening and closing doors. Thanks to the flat-pack furniture industry, which is also called RTA (Ready-To-Assemble) or K-D (knockdown) furniture, there are numerous useful woodworking fasteners and assembly fittings available.

Some fittings that you are most likely to use include:

  • Panel Connectors – this is a device for connecting two panels side by side. The device clamps two units together and provides lateral location by having a bolt that screws into a sleeved connector.
  • Corner Bracket – corner brackets are designed to attach table legs and also strengthen the corner joints. Two lugs fit into slots in the rails of the table and lock them together. A centre bolt is then tightened into the leg.  This is a very common connector.
  • Cam Fitting – a cam fitting allows two panels to be joined at right angles.  An integral screw in one panel is twisted a quarter turn tightening against a cam in the other panel pulling the two pieces together. This connector has been widely used in knockdown furniture.
  • Confirmat Screws – this is a nifty little screw designed to use with chipboard without splitting the material. A pilot hole of exact size is drilled into the chipboard core and then the parallel threads of the screw grip the chipboard fibres without expanding the board.

Some common hinges that you are most likely to use include:

  • Concealed Hinge – when a door is closed (on a base unit perhaps) the hinge cannot be seen. The hinge clips onto a base plate that allows the door to be easily removed and is adjustable in three directions.  To accommodate the hinge boss (the cup on the end of the hinge) a mounting hole is required.
  • Lay-on Hinge – this is also a concealed hinge but a mounting hole is not necessary. This hinge just lays on the surface of the door and the frame and is screwed into place. This type of hinge allows opening of 180 degrees and is spring loaded for a positive closing action.
  • Butt Hinge – this is the classic door hinge. It requires chiselling both the door and the frame to recess the hinge.  This hinge comes in many sizes from as small as ½ inch to as large as 4 inches for hanging full size doors.
  • Flush Hinge – this is a slim line hinge designed to be fitted without having to chisel a recess. One leaf folds inside the other making a very neat connection.

All of these fittings and hinges can be purchased in any good hardware store or do-it-yourself store. If you know exactly what you are looking for you can also purchase through mail-order suppliers.

About the Author:

Robert “Mac” McCormack is a cabinetry and furniture hardware expert who is an avid woodworker. Mac particularly enjoys helping others get started in their own home workshop. For more information about shed planning and woodworking fasteners visit Fast Easy Shed Plans.

Article Source: ArticlesBase.comShed Planning – Woodworking Fasteners


1. What’s your style?

Elegant painted designs with curvy carved legs? Seriously chunky solid wood? Or space-enhancing glass tops? Then there are monkish refectory styles, Victorian pedestals, and practical gate-leg tables.

2. How will its look affect the room?

Dark wood furniture has a rich, inviting appeal but can seem to close in the space, while glass or high-gloss white are the only options for a designer or small room. Instead of buying your dining chairs to match the table, pick an eclectic mix for a relaxed look.

3. How will it be used?

Consider where you’ll place the table and how you’ll use it. For example, an open plan kitchen diner needs furniture that will co-ordinate with kitchen units, and it’ll be used for everyday family meals so choose a table top that’s hardwearing.

4. What size do I need?

You’ll need at least 61cm between the table and the wall, or ideally 90cm. To work out how many people you can fit around the table, allow at least 53cm, or a more generous 60cm per place setting; for a round table, allow around 75cm, or alternatively, measure the diameter in inches, then divide by eight.

5. Make extra space

At Christmas or for dinner parties, extra places are often needed, so consider tables with drop-leaf, drawer-leaf or centre and end leaves – and allow for these when you’re measuring the space in the room.

6. Which material should I choose?

A solid wood top is the most practical choice because if it gets damaged, it can be sanded and refinished, and a few knocks and scratches often add to its charm and character. Many tables are made from a combination of materials, other than real wood. Wood veneers are fine slivers or real wood, bonded onto a cheaper material. Synthetic veneers (made from paper or pvc foils, printed to look like wood), MDF and particle board are also used to keep costs down. If a veneered top gets chipped or damaged revealing the surface beneath, you can’t easily repair it.

7. Which finish should I go for?

French polish gives a table that old-fashioned boardroom gleam but repairs will be expensive. If you have a busy household, go for a lacquered finish, just needing a light dusting with a soft cloth. However, if the finish gets damaged, you can’t repair it yourself. Wax and oil finishes, although less resistant to marking, have the advantage that you can re-wax them, filling in minor scratches.

8. How can I choose chairs?

For pure comfort, upholstered chairs are first choice. Wood chairs are practical, but can feel hard after a while, while cane and rush contain a natural padding. For a relaxing sit, look for a chair that’s at least 52 to 56cm wide, with a seat height of around 46cm.

9. What should I look for in-store?

Table heights can vary so if you’re buying dining chairs separately, try out various chairs in the showroom, to get the correct height. Check that the extension leaves are easy to use, that any runners glide smoothly, and that any hinges are strong and supportive.

10. What should I ask?

Check whether your furniture will be supplied fully assembled and if so, make sure that it will fit through any narrow corridors or awkward doorways. In some cases, a table may have detachable legs for easier access. Ask about guarantees, delivery times and charges.

Annie is an expert furniture and interior design writer. Her current area of specialism is fitness equipment, blinds and garden furniture

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